June 13th, 2010 by Brian Cooney

Jenny Graduation f6.3 1/500

What a whirlwind my life has been lately!  I have been our of town more weekends that I have been home latley, and there is a ton of stuff going on at work because My company, Dialysis Corporation, just got bought by USRenalcare, a Texas Dialysis company.  There is stress, panic, talk of moving to Texas, drama, excitement, and a ton of work to be done.  I spent the last two weeks working with and getting to know the US Renal IT staff, and they are a great bunch of guys.  My stress level is much lower than it was a few weeks ago….  and hopefully any shooting I do from Texas will be just as a visitor.

A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of driving down to Roanoke VA with my Beautiful wife, to see her friend Jenny graduate from college.  This is really a big deal for Jenny, as she has been in college for seven years now.  Of course I had my camera, and got some great pictures.

When arriving at the Graduation, the first thing I did was try to figure out which way the ladies (all female school) would be comming from.  Once I had that figured out, the next order of business was to get as close as humanly possible to the area where they would be giving out the Diplomas.  It was actually quite amusing in a way…. there were about 30 people with cameras to the Left of the Podium… me right out in front, waiting for people to come from the right.  We started out about 50 feet away from the action, and as a group, kept sneaking closer and closer until we were about 10 feet away from the tent.  Of course I was being careful to be the closest person, but not enough closer to get yelled at by security.

Once in position,  I started figuring out the light.   Being aware of the light was, and always is critical.  It was extremely sunny out, and the podium was under a tent.  The result was that if you trust your camera, things are going to look like crap because there is way too much bright light in the background,  but your subject is in shade.  My solution to this was to play with a manual exposure, practicing on the people that came through before her and checking the results.  The histogram said the image was blown out… and it was right… the highlights are totally white in the background… but I don’t care because my subject, Jenny, is in the Shade.  Since you can’t have your cake and eat it too, I choose to ignore what my camera tells me is right, and expose for the ladies in the shade.  I probally played with spot metering on something that was in the shade to get close to what I wanted.  An Incident light meter under the tent would have been a huge help here, but I don’t own one (sadly) and wouldn’t have been able to get under there with it anyway without getting more attention from security than I wanted or disrupting the ceremony.

Jenny with Diploma, f6.3 1/400

There were some other photographers there who were obviously the staff photographers.  Im not sure if they were media folk from the paper, or just students who were there to create the yearbook, but everybody was posing for them either way, so I used them.  I watched the people comming through before Jenny, to get an idea of where and when the girls were stopping for the pros…. and used it as an opportunity to get a different angle on it.  The Staff photographers were using Flash….  I am guessing that they were doing Fill flash to try to achieve a proper exposure.  I think my overexposed images (exposed correctly for subject) looked great… I would love to see the images they were capturing with their flashes to compare the two.  If I was a betting man, I would bet that mine look better due to the better quality of light off of the 50 foot diffusion panels that were effectively my light source (the tent,) but I would love to know for sure.

February 8th, 2010 by Brian Cooney

Briarcrest in Snow +1.3ev

This week I would like to talk about shooting in Snow.  People often have trouble with this, but its actually very easy.  Shooting at the Beach poses several of the same issues, and the same solutions.

The basic issue is simple.  Digital cameras expect every scene to be average.  An average scene, when you average all colors, ends up being 18% grey.  If you let your camera do all of the thinking, and it doesnt know its shooting snow,  it will try to make the entire scene average… which will make the snow average.  Average being 18% grey is just disgusting and dingy.

There are two ways to deal with this.  If you have a point and shoot camera,  look for a setting for “Snow” or “Beach” and set your camera there.  If you have a DSLR,  dial in a Positive exposure value.  If you don’t know how to do this, check your manual…. its always easy, and fundamentally useful.

If you are really serious about getting the best shots,  Bracket your exposures.  Some cameras can do this automatically, or you can do it manually by just setting different Exposure compensation values.  Again, check your manual, and look for Auto Exposure Bracket.  Either way, the point is this:  Get 3-6 images at different exposure levels.  Then, when you get back to your laptop, pick the best one.  Don’t trust your camera,  bracket, bracket, bracket.  Then when you get home, decide what you like best.

Snowboarding EV +1.3

If you shoot DSLR, shoot raw.  This will give you more power to adjust later as well.  If you Cant bracket,  say for example, because you are trying to shoot kids instead of landscapes,  try to find a positive exposure compensation value that you think will work, and you can massage the raw file a bit later…. but definably don’t just go full auto.  As a base line,  try +1ev.  This might not be right on, but it will be much better than having your camera set to neutral.

It may also be a good idea to shoot a little wide if your are trying to get a moving subject, especially if you have a descent Megapixel sensor.  Its better to crop the picture than to miss the shot because you couldn’t keep up with your subject.  For the snowboarding shot, I actually had the camera on a tripod with a shutter release, so I could watch the subject better, and shoot when i knew he would be in the frame.

Today the sky was a wonderful Blue.  I used a Circular Polarizer filter to really bring it to life… and loved the results.  The blue sky with white clouds,  and the white snow played great off of each other.

Shutter speed was not an issue today, as it was quite sunny, and I was using a tripod.  I think I had my camera at iso 100, on a tripod for most of the still shots, and I increased to ISO400 to get my shutter speed into the 500 range for the snowboarder, while keeping a deep Depth of field with a high F-stop number.

The other camera setting to watch is White Balance.  As it was a bright sunny day, so I shot all of these images on Daylight white balance.  If it were cloudy, I may have needed to adjust as such.  If you shoot raw, you can tweak this after the fact, but I didnt find that I needed to to get the affects I wanted on my images today.

Next time it snows,  keep these tips in mind.  Dial in a Positive exposure value,  Check your White balance,  set your ISO as low as you can while getting the shutter speeds you need, and go have a great time!

February 1st, 2010 by Brian Cooney

My brother Shaun with the ball

This Saturday I had the opportunity to shoot my first basketball game. My little brother Shaun and his friend Tyler were playing for their East Pennsboro team.  According to Mom, this is considered to be a JV team, so everybody gets to play. Next year they will have to try out.

Before going to the game, I did considerable reading on forums and  the Digital Photography Schools website to look for any extra tips that I hadn’t thought about…. hoping to have a good first outing.  Im not terribly happy with the results of these pictures, but the research and thought processes I went through are valuable, so I will share them along with my best images.   I knew from my research that my equipment would pose some limitations.  The main issue when you are shooting fast moving action in a middle school gym is lack of light.  Our eyes do a fine job adjusting, but to a camera, its just not a bright environment.  I took two cameras, and two lenses, because I didn’t know what I would be in for.  I ended up using my fastest zoom,  a 24-105mm f4L on my 50d body.  I set the camera to 1/250 Shutter priority, since I figured that would be the SLOWEST shutter speed that could provide acceptable results.  Anything slower would guarantee lousy results, and indeed I think 1/250 was probably too slow.  I set ISO on automatic, which is something I normally never do.  The camera got to pick ISO and Aperture.  The reason I choose these settings is because I knew the ISO would be painfully high… ranging from 1600 to 3200.  By letting the camera pick, I figured I would have at least some shots with a lower ISO… which I wanted.  The Aperture pretty much stuck at f/4 the entire time, which is what I expected.  I also could have probably set the camera to manual 1/250-f4, but I wanted to give it some flexibility in case changing the ISO wouldn’t give quite a correct exposure.

I expected noise to be my biggest problem…. and while it is noticible, its not as bad as I thought.  Next time I do this, I will go with a higher shutter speed, at the cost of more noise, and see which works better.  The good thing is that they will be playing in the same gym next weekend, so I may try to make that game.

Tyler takes a foul shot

If I had my choice of equipment, I would definitely have a full frame camera for better noise control. I would defiantly trade my 24-105 f4L for a 24-70 f2.8L.  Finally, if possible, I would be packing a 70-200 f2.8L.  In this type of scenario,  Image stabilization really doesn’t matter much, because your subject is moving fast.  Image Stabilizers are great for using slower shutter speeds, and I will always get them if I can, but in this situation a aperture that is one stop faster will beat three stops of stabilization every time, because it is the subject motion that is the issue, not your caffeine shaking hands.  If you are buying a lens because your kids play sports,  spend your money on F stops, NOT IS.  Period.  If you can have both, great, but the IS wont help you here.  I would also consider an even faster prime lens.  I will probably try my 50mm 1.8 at some point.  In fact, that is what was on my second body, but I really didn’t use it this time.  I tried going to f5.6 to see if my 100-400 f4.5-5.6L would be useful to bring next time.  No way,  that extra stop killed any chance I had at a sharp image.

My position was a big help.  I was able to hide on the floor down at the end, about 10 feet behind the basket, off to one side.  This allowed me a good camera angle to get faces on my brothers team as they moved twards their basket with the ball.  My favorite pictures would not have been possible from the stands.

I sharpened all of these images.  No choice… hopefully next time a higher shutter speed proves to be less evil than the higher noise that will come with it.

I would love to get flash involved, but I dont have pocket wizards to put the lights where I would want, and I dont know the coaches well enough yet to feel comfortable asking.  Ill let them get used to me first.  I think even a little fill flash would help a lot, but i’m just not sure about distracting the players.  I wasn’t sure if the coaches would have yelled at me for being too close to the court…  but they didn’t.  I don’t want to push my luck.

The color temp of this gym is horrible.  No setting on my camera other than Auto looked even remotely ok….. so if I did get flash involved, I would defiantly need to experiment with Gels to find a mix of different greens to make it match close enough.  Definitely a problem for another day.

Needless to say, I had empty memory cards to start, and my camera on its fastest Burst mode.  I actually didn’t burst as much as I expected, or use as much memory as expected,  but I also didn’t know they only play eight minute quarters.  I used a lower quality raw file… which I have never done before, because I didn’t want to run out of memory.  I think the second biggest raw file on my 50d is about the same quality as the raw files on my Rebel XT……  so I know they would be acceptable if everything else is ok.  That being said, I still would love to have more memory……  you can easily burn a lot of pixels shooting hoops.  My main memory card is 16gb….  I don’t think it would be enough if I shot a normal length games with full size raw files.

If I didn’t have the 50d,  I would have used the 50mm 1.8 with my digital Rebel XT.   I would have used ISO 1600, RAW, and TV of somewhere in the 300-500 range.  This could have given me some great shots, but probably only when the guys are fairly close in.  That being said, I think some of them would have been superior to what I got with my Zoom, but i’m lazy, and love my zoom.  My point is that if you have a Rebel, or some other camera that won’t go over 1600,  try that nifty fifty.  I might too.

Regardless of what camera you use, don’t forget to think about what focus mode you use.  Refresh your memory by reading the part of your cameras manual that talks about focus modes, and do what makes sense.  You probably want to set it to only use the middle AF points,  and set it to track your subject for you.  This might be called AI Focus or something similar. Again, a feature I have never used, and need practice with… but it could be a big help with running kids.  Setting to the middle focus point just gives you a predictable focal point.  There is just too much going on to let your camera decide for you.

Broady Cruise playing at Halftime

The mistake I made most often in composition was framing too tight.  Because I love my zoom, I want to see faces.  Many times,  this meant not seeing where the ball was going, like mabey… the basket.  Besides… composition is kinda hard with this game… its probably a good idea to be able to recompose with the crop tool later, which I found myself doing on nearly every shot in this case.

One suggestion that I liked, but forgot about… is if you get a good action shot… especially one that might matter  to the story of the game, shoot the scoreboard for an easy record of when it happened.

Keep shooting when the action stops.  One of my favorite pictures was of my brothers cousins playing during half time.  Or you might catch some good interaction between the players and coaches.  I didn’t catch anything I liked off the court with the teams, but thoes shots are sometimes more engaging and personal than the action stuff.

I know I am missing some Ideas… but hopefully some of the ones I touched on are helpful.  If you have experience with sports shooting indoors, please share.  Sadly,  point and shoots probably wont cut it for this stuff, but if you have a SLR, get out there and give it a go for a fun, challenging night of photography!   If your shopping for Lenses,  don’t settle for higher than f2.8 if this is the type of shooting you want to do.  If you are shopping for a camera body,  look for ones that do well at ISOs above 1600.  Its suboptimal to shoot like this with any camera, but you are probably going to need it. And finally,  don’t forget that if you have a SLR, but your lens wont cut it…. you can alway rent a lens to catch your kids big game this weekend.  Selection, availability, and prices of rentals are a great perk to those of us who shoot Canon or Nikon.  Just don’t loose track of how many times you need to rent something before its better to just buy it.  Throwing money away is low on my agenda, or I would have all of these wonderful lenses, and live in a cardboard box.  At any rate, even without the right gear, you can use what you have to get out there and learn something, and when you have better gear you will have one up on the folks who have money but no practice.  And who knows,  you might even make some good images along the way!

January 25th, 2010 by Brian Cooney

What a day.  My birds wouldnt shut up this afternoon, and they were actually starting to hurt my head,  so I decided to take a drive and ended up at dads house.  Dad and his wife, Sandy, were watching the football playoffs.  The only light sources in the room were the Television,  a dim tungsten light in the kitchen,  and a candle.  I liked the look of this light mix, so I decided it was a good time to get a picture of Sandy.

The main thing lighting her in this frame is three candles on her tray table.  I know the TV was dark when I snapped this frame because I don’t see its reflection in her glasses.  In this dim environment, I had my canon 50mm wide open at f1.8.  I had the shutter speed at 1/8th of a second.  There are a few things you need to think about  in this type of shot.  The first thing you need to think about, is what your camera wants to do.  You camera wants to make an image that looks like a well lit room.  I don’t want that…..  a candle lit room shouldn’t be bright….. so you need to tell the camera what you want.  You can do this by taking full manual control of the camera, or you can use an exposure compensation.  I used Exposure compensation, dialing in -2 f-stops.  The second thing you need to think about is motion.  Sandy was rocking… so I had to ask her to stop blurring my picture.  Sandy kindly kicked her feet up with the recliner, which also made the chair lock into position.  Good thinking Sandy!  The next thing is…. unless you are a robot, there is no way you are going to get a sharp image with a 1/8th shutter speed, unless you throw the camera on a solid tripod or object, and use a shutter release or timer.  I greatly prefer a shutter release cable…. because with a timer I can’t snap when I see her smile.  Timers are for when your waiting for somebody to buy you a release cable for Christmas, or or when you accidentally forgot the cable.  Think about the ISO.  I used to always try to go high on ISO in a dark enviornment, but this isnt always best.  If your trying to hand hold the camera, you might NEED to go as high as you can on ISO….. but if there is a tripod involved, go as low as you can while getting a sharp image.  This will make the image look much less noisy. Also, watch your white balance.  If you have it set to auto, you aren’t going to get the pretty warm candlelight… because your camera is going to want to make the candle light look like daylight.

I also used my camera’s Live view mode…. which lets you “zoom in” on a small part of the frame that will actually be captured…. to make manual focus on the eyes easier.  This is a huge help in a dark room, as long as things aren’t moving. I wouldn’t even want to waste my time trying to autofocus with light like this…. unless I was trying to handhold the camera, which would be silly.

Dont try to follow my exposure formula for this image by the numbers… just think about what you are trying to achieve, and push your camera around to get it.  I wanted a candlelit environmental portrait… one that shows you my wonderful stepmom and tells a little story about her at the same time, and I feel thats what I got with this image.  I moved some things on her tray table, slid the tray table a little closer, added the seocond two candles, and moved her book into the frame… but otherwise this is what I saw when I showed up to visit.

January 12th, 2010 by Brian Cooney

So this post is a little early…. because I am boared and in a hotel room all by myself.

I am here in Cincinnati tonight, after flying in for work.  I decided to try some of the magic I have learned form reading Strobist, and came up with these pictures.  I am pretty happy with the results, given the tools at hand and it being just me, myself, and I.

How did I do it?  Well,  I re-arranged my hotel room.  The room has UGLY two tone striped wall paper.  I hit that wall paper with my Vivitar 285 at 1/2 power, from about four feet away.  The flash was tied to one of the rooms wall lights (which was de-shaded and de-bulbed) with a big piece of Velcro.  My crappy little radio triggers werernt working right, so I ended up putting a second flash on the camera and using an optical slave to trigger the first one.  I was planning on using two flashes anyway… I just didnt really want the one lighting me on the camera.  Oh well.

The Light on the camera was probally at 1/4 power, and definatly pointed strait up, with a Lumiquest 80/20 to try to get some even light on me.  So what we have happening here is simple.  Two flashes.  One of them is over exposing an ugly wall so bad it just looks like I am in a softbox.  The wall is at my back, five feet behind me.  The first flash is to my left, blasting the wall.  The second flash, with the 80/20, is on the camera, and is set with enough power to make me look good.  I am fairly happy with the results.

You will be amused to know that not only did I not have a light stand, but I also didn’t have a tripod.  My camera is sitting on the hotel lap desk,  which is sitting on the luggage rack,  which is sitting on the bed.  This whole mess is about 3-4 feet away from me.  Focus is always a pain in the butt when you are doing a self portrait.  I used a ugly floor lamp as a stand-in to manually focus on…. putting it close to where my face would be.  I have decided that… while shooting other people scares me a bit….  shooting myself is MUCH more of a pain in the butt from a logistical point of view.  Anybody want to be a subject so I don’t have to work as hard to make a frame?  Let me know.  On the bright side…. Live view…. and zooming in on what you are focusing… makes focus MUCH easier when there is a bed preventing you from putting your eye to the camera without killing your back.  God Bless live view for this type of case, and to think I would only use it for macro.

All and all, not bad for two flashes, and ugly wallpaper.  I didn’t even have to edit the pictures to get this look…. which is good because I suck at editing pictures.

January 11th, 2010 by Brian Cooney

My Brother went to school for digital arts.  What this means, is that he is kinda descent at hacking with graphics, and layouts, and has some nifty tools on his laptop.  Anyway,  with a little help from him, I am ready to actually let the world see this blog!  As a thanks,  I drug him out in the cold to spend time in front of the camera.  From my first test shot, to my last image, we spent 8 minutes outside.  I would have loved to be there longer… but it was COLD!  Here are the images as recorded by the camera… no editing.  Not bad for 8 minutes.

So heres how I did it:

Take a few test shots with the camera in manual exposure mode.  Underexpose the crap out of it to keep the sky all pretty.  My first guess was right on….  1/200 as f5.0. At this point, Tommy is a Deep Dark mass.  Then I put One light on a stand, and use it to bring him back.  I adjust exposure on Tommy by moving the stand around to control the light power.  If I needed a major change, I could have adjusted the flash power, but for little tweaks varying the distance is better.

A second light would have made him look a little better, and let me control the shadows.  However, its cold out.  I knew going into it that this would be One light job….  thus avoiding frozen (well, too frozen) fingers.

See?  He doesnt look that bad if you get him out of thoes Nintendo shirts  Thank you for helping me with the Blog Tommy!  Feel free to steal whichever pic you want for your Facebook Profile